Today I want to talk about another misunderstood food that my family is crazy about: mushrooms. I have loved them since childhood, as has Girlfriend who, since she was tiny, has called them “toadstools.” Thus, I was thrilled by the release of the new cookbook, Shroom: Mind-bendingly Good Recipes for Cultivated and Wild Mushrooms by Becky Selengut. Once again, Becky has taken a subject (as she did for fish in and local/seasonal cooking in ) and written the heck out of it. Full disclosure: Becky is a pal of mine and I’ve known about this book since it was but a glimmer in her eye. We also shared the same agent. Once again, Becky has taken a subject (as she did for fish in her must-have Good Fish: Sustainable Seafood Recipes from the Pacific Coastand local/seasonal cooking in Washington Local and Seasonal Cookbook (American Culinary Kitchen)and written the heck out of it.
This book is a fabulous resource book in addition to cookbook. It explains what mushrooms are (fungus), as well as their nutritional content (full of protein and with the most vitamin D of any non-meat food). It offers information on how to choose mushrooms, how to clean them, how to dry and then rehydrate them, how to freeze the few that can be frozen raw, how to make stock from them, and how to store them.
The book is then divided into chapters, each devoted to a single or collection of mushrooms in a genus, including: Button/Cremini/Portobello (which are all the same mushroom in different stages of development–who knew?); Beech; Oyster; King Trumpet; Shitake; Maitake; Lion’s Mane; Morel; Chanterell; Hedgehog; Porcini; Lobster; Black Trumpet; Truffle; Matsutake. Each chapter contains a fact sheet on the mushrooms, which describes the mushrooms, their alternaive names, how they are cultivated or picked, how to buy, clean, and store them, nerdy factoids (I love these) as well as notes about flavor, texture, and aroma. These fact sheets are invaluable. I find them extraordinarily helpful as I’m planning meals and trying to figure out what taste sensations I’m going for in a dish. Then each chapter contains a variety of recipes using the mushrooms, as well as wine pairing suggestions from Becky’s sommelier wife, April Pogue. If you’re like me and really have no idea how to pair a meal with a wine, you will find this part a delightful added bonus. On top of all of this, she has made a series of informational videos to go with the book.
Becky is a trained chef and knows her foods. She is brilliant at putting together the flavors for each recipe. In addition, she knows, has experience with, and has compassion about food allergies. She herself is sensitive to the allium family (onions and garlic). Where needed, she gives suggestions on how to substitute for gluten. Another full disclosure, she has recommended this blog in the book as a place to go for information on converting recipes to gluten-free (thanks, Becky!). I haven’t had a chance to try many of the recipes, yet (this is the story of my life, it seems), but the ones I’ve tried have been terrific. Also, Girlfriend was as excited as I’ve ever seen her when I got this book–mushrooms are one of the things she requests a few times a week for dinner. This book has helped me provide delicious answers to her requests in a non-boring way (up until now, my go-to mushroom recipes are to sauté them or make stroganoff).
In addition to being a smart food book, it is a pleasure to read. Becky is one of my favorite writers and her writing is smart and super funny. Early in the book she has a section called “What ‘Shroom Are You?” which is an hilarious question answer game that ends up designating the mushroom you are that night (it can change from night to night). And the photos are wonderful—which is a given since they are by Clare Barboza, who did the photos for my first book!
Shroom is a wonderful cookbook and resource and I highly recommend adding it to your cookbook shelf.
Note: if you buy the books via the above link to Amazon, I receive a tiny percentage of each sale :).
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Eugene Leffel
Where can I find it?
Jeanne
Eugene: Anywhere books are sold. Also, if you click on the title it will take you to the Amazon link to buy it. Happy reading!