As you know, gluten-free baking is challenging mostly because we can’t use a flour that contains gluten, that magical protein that has many qualities that are difficult to replicate. Gluten performs four primary functions in baking in addition to a couple other functions:
First, it is a binder—it holds baked items together.
Second, it provides structure. This works in tandem with the binding function—it serves as the tent pole structure that starches adhere to and create the tent covering for leaveners to work on and push on to create the loft.
And third, it has elasticity. It can be stretched and still hold together. And gluten is a champ in terms of elasticity because not only can it be stretched, it is malleable. It can be formed into shapes that stay in shape. This is why you can do things like form a wheat dough into a round loaf of bread on a cookie sheet and it will maintain its round shape during the rising and baking process.
Gluten also has a function in moisture retention in a baked item, which helps with prolonging the shelf-life of the baked item. This is why gluten-free items tend to go stale more quickly than gluten-containing ones.
In addition, wheat flour contains natural gums, which help facilitate all of the tasks gluten does.
Without gluten (in wheat) or the gums/seeds (added to gluten-free flours), baked goods are flat, crumbly, dry, and as heavy as hockey pucks. And this is what gluten-free baked items are like when nothing is added to make up for the lack of gluten and gums.
This is why gluten-free baking requires the use of what I call “gluten-replacers.” In order to get baked items that behave in ways we want them to, we need to add something to mimic gluten/gums properties. Currently, there are three primary gluten-replacers used in gluten-free baking: xanthan gum, guar gum, and ground seeds like psyillium, flax, and chia. And, while they all are used as gluten-replacers, they don’t behave in the same ways. They each are better or worse at particular jobs. Below is a quick rundown of how each works in gluten-free baking.
Xanthan gum is the product created from the fermentation of the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris in a sugar solution. In my opinion, xanthan gum is the one that behaves most like gluten. It’s not perfect, but I think it’s the best that we have currently. It has excellent binding and structure-building capabilities. And it is pretty good in terms of elasticity. It creates baked items that do not have a taste or gumminess that can be attributed to the gum. And for most baking recipes you only need to use about ¼ teaspoon of xanthan gum per cup of flour. After over 20 years of baking and researching gluten-free baking, I have come to prefer xanthan gum for the type of gluten-free baking I do–that which mimics its wheat counterparts and tastes like I remember wheat baked items to taste. And I do this by using classic techniques and ingredients that behave in a classic way.
Xanthan gum has a shelf life. I have found that if I use it past the date on the package, it doesn’t work as well. So, be aware of the expiration date and don’t use old xanthan gum.
Guar gum is made from the guar bean plant. It is pretty good at binding and structure-building. But it is much less elastic than xanthan gum. The image that comes to mind for me when I use guar gum is that of old chewing gum. Old gum is pretty hard to chew and is not very elastic. It’s good in a pinch, but it’s not great and it’s not my first choice.
When I use it, I use the same amount of guar gum that I use of xanthan gum per cup of flour–about 1/4 teaspoon. But, it never feels like that’s the correct amount for everything. For me, it requires more tweaking than I’m interested in doing of each thing in which it’s used in order to get it to work well. That said, if you are interested in using guar gum in your baking, check out this book by my pal, Karen Morgan: Blackbird Bakery Gluten-Free: 75 Recipes for Irresistible Gluten-Free Desserts and Pastries. (this is an affiliate link–I get a tiny percentage of each sale–at not extra cost to you!–if you use this link. Thank you!)
She is a wiz at delicious gluten-free baking with guar gum.
I’m not sure if guar gum has a limited shelf life, but I’m assuming it does since it is made from beans.
There are some gluten-free bakers, including Carol Fenster–one of my gluten-free idols–who use both xanthan gum and guar gum in tandem. In a nutshell, they feel that xanthan gum provides good structure while guar gum provides a “fluffy” factor. I haven’t experimented with using both of them, but you might want to if this is of interest to you.
At first glance, various combinations of psyllium, chia, and flax seeds seem to be the holy grail of gluten-replacers, although you do have to use a lot (several tablespoons in a recipe). They are good at binding and seem to be good at structure building. And, at first, they appear to be excellent in terms of elasticity. I have made breads with the seeds that can be kneaded (although kneading gluten-free bread isn’t necessary because there is no gluten to develop) and shaped by hand. And they rise and bake up to look just like a wheat loaf.
But, where the seeds fail is in the end product. First, baked items using seeds always has a taste of the seeds (which isn’t necessarily horrible, it’s just not what I want). Also, there is an undertone (or overtone) of gumminess in the mouth feel, which I find to be somewhat unpleasant. Finally, after a day or two, the baked item crumbles in a funky way—it separates into chunks of gummy crumbles. Therefore, the seeds produce baked items that look good but that do not taste or feel like I want baked items to taste or feel. This is why I don’t tend to use the seeds as gluten-replacers. I do, however, use them as egg replacers, where I think they do a fairly good job.
Pectin/gelatin: There are also folks who have experimented with using pectin or gelatin as gluten replacers. In my experience, they seem to have the same type of problems that the seeds have and therefore, I don’t use them. That said, I haven’t done a lot of research with these.
So, Let’s Talk About Xanthan Gum
It’s what I use and what I feel works best in the baking I do. And, there is a lot of misinformation floating around about xanthan gum that I want to clear up. Clearly, you need to choose what’s best for you, but I really want folks to make a truly informed choice.
As described earlier, xanthan gum is made from the fermentation of the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris. What this means is that the bacteria is introduced to a sugar solution— most often corn. The bacteria is broken down during the fermentation process, creating a by-product—xanthan gum. The xanthan gum is then harvested and dried into a powder.
What is important to note about the process is that the xanthan gum is a product of the process that uses Xanthomonas campestris and the sugar medium. It is not, itself, either of these things. It is something new. What this means is that xanthan gum is no longer the sugar it’s grown on.
Of course, you could be sensitive to the xanthan gum itself (or to guar gum or to the seeds). But I think it’s important to be clear with yourself about what you’re sensitive to. If you avoid xanthan gum simply because of reading incorrect information about it, you might want to give it a chance.
As I’ve said, about a 1/4 teaspoon of xanthan gum per cup of gluten-free flour works best for most non-yeasted recipes. Yeasted recipes require more (often 1 teaspoon or so per cup of flour) and I tweak each amount as I develop a recipe.
EXPIRATION OF XANTHAN GUM: I have found that xanthan gum does lose its properties after awhile. Check the expiration date on your package and replenish as needed.
MEDICAL DISCLAMER: I’m not a medical doctor. If you are allergic to any foods, you need to discuss this with your doctor before eating anything you’re not sure of.
This post contains an Amazon Affiliate link. What this means is that I get a tiny percentage of the purchase if you buy through this link (at no additional cost to you). Thank you!
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Copyright secured by Digiprove © 2013-2016 Jeanne Sauvage
Hi Jean. Good helpful advice on your site. I heard about Maninis ancient grains recently and wondered if you had any knowledge of them as reading the many reviews on their site it seems as if using them makes for really good bread. I am also dairy intolerant and wondered if using some sort of margerine instead of butter and where milk is needed which substitute would be best so as not to add any taste to the bread?
Anyway thanks for a really helpful and instructive blog.
Brian (Wales, UK)
Brian: Greetings all the way to Wales! I like Manini’s bread! At some point they had a bread mix that I loved (I haven’t bought it recently, so I don’t know if they still have it). Basically, I usually use coconut milk for any milk called for in a recipe, coconut milk mixed with vinegar for buttermilk, and a soy-free butter replacer mixed with coconut oil for butter replacing. For more info on dairy replacements, check out my Ingredient Substitutions post. Also, my Gluten-Free Wish List book (my second cookbook) has some good info in it on replacing dairy. Thanks for visiting!
Hi, can Xanthan gum be used is bread baking as a Gluten substitute?
What quantity of the gum can be used on a bag/25kg of flour?
thanks
Mekz: I’m not sure what you’re asking. The answer is in the post–and yes, xanthan gum is used as a gluten replacer. I recommend using 1/4 tsp of xanthan gum per cup of gluten-free flour.
Thanks Jeanne
Mekz: You’re welcome!
I have found that combining small amounts of xanthan, psyllium and citrus pectin makes for a very “bread-like” texture! I frequently trick people with out breads, you would not necessarily know they are gluten free. We are currently making an artisan boule that looks and tastes pretty darn close to the real thing. I also sometimes use very small amounts of inulin and or Konjac root powder too depending on the Flours used, they help in the absence of eggs. My website has some fun photos 🙂
Joni: Terrific! I am glad you’ve found things that you like!
Would you care to share any of your gluten free bread for sandwiches recipes please or tell me where I can find them and my email is nancycourser@gmail.com thank you
Nancy: Go to the top of my blog and hit “Gluten-Free Recipes.” It will take you to an alphabetical list of my recipes!
How much Xanthan Gum to use per cup of gluten free cake flour recipes ?….Thank You.
Lorraine: I usually recommend that folks use a 1/4 tsp of xanthan gum per cup of flour.
I want to make pastry , I have gluten free white flour and was wondering if I can use eggs/egg white in place of Xanthan gum? If so what would the ratio of egg to flour be, and would whole egg or egg white be the best choice.
I am new to gluten free baking and getting confused so any help appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Chris: Welcome to gluten-free baking! What kind of pastry do you want to make? Also, eggs don’t replace gluten. They are structure-builders like gluten is, but they don’t do the other things gluten does. I recommend that you look on my Recipes page to see if the pastry you want to make is on there. Happy baking!
I got good results by using 3 oz of cream cheese in place of 3 oz of butter in Jeannie’s pie crust recipe with no xanthan gum. You do need to spray your pie crust with nonstick spray and you may need to fix any tears when you transfer it to the pie plate. It helps to add 1/4 tsp baking powder to help with shrinking.
Hi Jeanne – I have been baking GF for a few years now, and I agree that xanthan gum seems to work best with baking, but the issue I have with it is the taste. I often use less than called for because I’ve noticed it gives a strange, unpleasant aftertaste for most people. Have you experienced this and is there anything you do to counter this? Is just using as little as possible the best answer? Hard to always find the balance.
Also, thank you for the time you have poured into this blog! What a treasure to find!
Cindi: Hm. I haven’t experienced the aftertaste–nor has anyone I’ve talked to. Often when something that isn’t supposed to have a strong taste has a taste, it’s either gone bad or it’s not made well. Can you describe the taste? If it’s a metallic taste, that is often either a starch that’s gone bad (like tapioca) or due to the use of a double acting baking powder that uses sodium aluminum sulphate (SAS). Also, thank you! I’m so glad you like the blog!
Hi, I find texture and digestive after effects to be more of an issue than after taste with xanthem gum. However I have found that potato starches and some buckwheat flours go bitter in products a day or so after baking.
Joanna: Ah, OK. It sounds like you might be reacting to the xanthan gum itself. If this is the case, try substituting guar gum and see how things go for you.
I’m making gluten free fruitcakes for some people…I’m a pretty good baker, but haven’t worked with gluten free flour. These are fruit/nut/liquor heavy cakes with lots of butter and eggs and not too much flour and they age for a few weeks. I’m leaning towards adding some ground flaxseed for the binder, as I don’t want a bready, elastic texture that I’m worried xanthan gun might give. Do you have any thoughts about what to use specifically for a dense fruitcake like this? Thanks!
Lawrence: You will need some sort of gluten replacer in anything you bake–because gluten is what makes the baked good look and feel like what it is. A bready texture is created from more-than-normal gluten (or gluten replacer). My experience is that the seeds (chia, flax, etc) create a more gummy result. Xanthan gum is my preferred gluten replacer. If you are making a non-yeasted item, I recommend about 1/4 tsp per cup of flour. If you use my flour mix (recipe here), the xanthan gum is already added to my mix, so you don’t need to add more. Happy baking!
Hi Lawrence, I make heavy fruit cakes – as in Christmas cakes. I just replace the plain flour with almond flour (ground almonds) I also use honey instead of sugar. The cake is just as wonderful and nobody including me could tell that it wasn’t the normal recipe that I have been making for years. With a heavy Fruit cake you do not have to add additional binders.
hello, do you have any suggestions for me…I am trying to put together a gf flour blend however I cannot use potato, tapioca, or white rice flour/starch due to sensitivity.
Thanks
Lisa: I would recommend using arrowroot starch in the place of the tapioca starch and brown rice flour in the place of the white rice in my mix. 🙂
Hi
Thank you for this information. I just wanted to mention that I do not have a gluten sensitivity but it seems I react to Xantham Gum – stomach cramps, GI disturbance, headache and a general sense of lethargy. This is similar to when I have sinus and allergy problems, so I acknowledge I have sensitivities. I found out that after I ate products that I had baked with Xantham Gum for my daughter in law, who has been medically diagnosed with coeliac disease, that I became unwell.
Cathie: Yes, that makes sense–sounds like you are reacting to the xanthan gum itself.
Hi
Have you tried modified Cassava starch? In the UK, we have Isabel’s and I think that in the US, you have Expandex (or something else that sounds like pantyhose!). I tried it because I found that xanthan was a bit heavy and psyllium breads go crumbly after a day unless they’ve got large numbers of eggs in them. I found that it was lighter than xanthan but maybe not quite as good at binding. I was thinking of mixing the two to see if I can get a balance of them together, wondered if you’d tried something similar? The best bread I made, texture wise had flax/linseed in it but I then had an allergic reaction, so flax is out for us.
Woodsidermum: I have experimented with it. The flour itself holds structure quite well, but it still isn’t a binder. You still need to add something to hold things together like gluten does. I like xanthan gum for this–I would recommend using it in tandem with xanthan gum–maybe use less that you normally do–and see how it goes.
has anyone made a sourdough gluten free bread? I make dough in the breadmaker and then bake it. I made some starter, with gluten free flour mix, but have not tried to use it yet. still trying to find the 1 tbl packet of xanthum.
Betty: check out my Sourdough Bread recipe on this site. Also, you can find xanthan gum online if you can’t find it in your stores.
re: gluten replacers
I would like to know if you have experimented with Konjac(Konyaku) powder as a gluten replacer. I have some old xanthan gum but my Konyaku powder is fresher. It might be interesting to have this item added to your gluten replacers post.
Deborah: I haven’t tried that. It sounds like it is somewhat like gelatin–which doesn’t give the results in baking that xanthan gum does.
I was wondering if you notice a difference in baking performance when using different brands of xanthan gum? I have always used Now Foods because it is less expensive. I notice many cookbooks recommend Bob Red mills you mention you have used a variety what is your opinion ? Do you feel they all work the same of they do perform differently?
Diana: I usually use Bob’s xanthan gum so I can’t really comment on how the others work. They are each made from a different sugar medium, which may or may not affect the performance. I’m guessing that books recommend Bob’s because it’s the most well known.
l am somewhat confused by your substitution for sweet rice flour. Do l use 1 cup of potato flour in place of 1 cup of sweet rice flour? Or do l substitiute 1 cup of potato starch for 1 cup of sweet rice flour? l tried replacing 1 cup of potato starch for l cup of sweet rice and the result was amazing. “Best bread ever”, said my two boys aged 15 and 26. Today l reread your blog and realized it should have been potato flour? So l am trying it now but it is very heavy and did not rise as high as the potato starch bread. And l had to add almost 1 extra cup of water..have you actually tried rice flour in place of sweet rice flour yourself?
Thank you so much for sharing your recipes. There is a lady where l live who makes really good gluten free bread but guards her secret and will not share. l cracked the code so to speak and now l share it with everyone. And your recipe (with my substitute of potato starch) is so far the winner. May God bless you for being so sweet-no pun intended-and sharing your wonderful recipes.
Natalie from Alberta, Canada
Natalie: I would use what works for you. I usually recommend potato flour in the place of sweet rice flour. But if you used potato starch and you liked it, then continue to do that. Potato starch and potato flour are different from each other.
Can I use it with pure almond flour to make pasta? Has anyone tried this? I can’t use arrowroot etc bec of the carb count
Kim: My theory is to try it and see how it goes.
I’m gluten intolerant I use Gradpas gluten free flour mix. Will the receips work the same with this flour mix? The bag says can be used cup for cup in any wheat recipe.
Peggy: I don’t know–I’ve never heard of Grandpa’s gluten-free flour. Check out my Flour Mix Substitutions post for more info on using other flour mixes.
Do you have any info on whether guar gum looses it’s properties as it ages? I have a plastic bottle of NOW Foods bramd that is about 8 years old and I don’t want to waste time using it if it can get stale.
L Kaya: I don’t. Does the container have a “use by” date anywhere? I’m going to assume that it does get less effective as it ages since xanthan gum does. I would get some new guar gum and go from there.
Not sure if you ever tried your guar gum— but I just ruined an entire batch of cake mix by adding expired guar gum to it— my husbands birthday cake at that 🙁 It definitely expires!!! I purchased mine online from TIC Gums late last year and unfortunately didn’t notice that it had been manufactured in 2012 and would expire in April of 2014. I will be contacting them tomorrow as that is a rip off! Needless to say, if it’s expired you will be able to tell as it reeks of rancidity.
Atourina: I’m not a huge fan of guar gum. It makes things too “tight”–with no elasticity. Also, yes: most of the time, an expired thing will smell (but not all of the time).
I’m pretty new to this game – I’m on a low-FODMAP diet, which includes no wheat products, so I’ve been experimenting with other flours. A lot of what I’ve baked turned out terrible (I never realized you had to actually do research first!) until I made banana cupcakes using gelatin and flax seeds, and cream of tartar to keep the eggs whipped. They were SO good! Now, after reading this, I’m eager to get some xantham gum and try that, as well as try some of your recipes. Thank you!
Jan: Yay! You’re welcome! And happy baking!
My hubby and I are trying gluten free baking just because we get enough wheat in our lives and could stand to do without a bit. My question is, we have found oat flour to work really well to replace wheat but no one seems to be using it in any recipes. Is there a reason for this?
April: one of the problems with oats is that many folks who cannot tolerate gluten also cannot tolerate a prolamine in oats (avenin). If you can tolerate oats then I would say go for it. It sounds like you aren’t gluten-free, so I’m guessing you can probably tolerate oats. 🙂 More info on the topic can be found in my Oats post.
I have never experienced what you mentioned about psyllium or chia ever! I have only found these to be much better than gums, so much its has been a huge improvement in the gluten free bread baking world! Texture, adaptability, structure, strength, rise……no crumbly mess when you try to get a knife to it! And no need for added extra ingredients like eggs and milk etc! Psyllium, chia and flax are wonderful to GF bread baking!
Samantha: That’s awesome. It’s terrific for folks to find what they like!
It is! I’m on a quest to create a GF bread of simple measures and ingredients but with all the same characteristic’s of gluten bread. From sandwich loaf to a rustic boule to baguette’s and rolls! And of course I want it to be healthy, affordable and adaptable. I don’t want much really 😉
Samantha: Sounds good!
Samantha: Agreed! And LOL!
Samantha how do you include chia and flax?? Sounds awesome!
Samantha, you’re a girl after my own heart! Your name sounds really familiar too… I’ve been GF baking from scratch for several years and though I started with xanthan, I was never really happy with it myself. Even with the recommended amounts. Since learning about psyllium, my baked goods turn out great! Gluten Free Girl has some great info – that’s where I first learned about it. I haven’t tried cookies, mostly quickbreads and muffins. I also use flax but not so much chia because it does get very gummy. The key with all of them is to grind them finely. If you’re using whole seeds then you’re def gonna have a problem! IMO. I find I can add a Tbsp or 2 of ground flax without having to change any other amounts (again, for quickbreads/muffins). I generally use ~1 tsp psyllium husk powder in an average recipe, depending on how much starch I’m using (more whole grain needs more binder). My Berry Bran Muffins have lots of ground flax but also very little starch and I pre-soak the flour so they need a little more psyllium. My grain-free Banana Nut Spice Muffins have a small amount of ground flax and no psyllium and hold together perfectly. I think the quinoa flour, coconut flour and extra egg helps that one. The more you play, the more you’ll get a feel for how much to use. Some of my recipes need very little, some need more. I don’t always want to use flax, esp if I’m trying to get a really clean flavor like Lemon Ginger Blueberry muffins, and the psyllium on its own worked fine. Anyway, just my 2 cents 🙂
Hi there, here’s Jordi, from Spain (sorry for my english).
I’ve been trying Xanthan gum and flax seeds. I think Xanthan gum it works much better and there’s no difference about flavour. Here’s my experiment: (in spanish):
http://mamafermenta.wordpress.com/2013/02/03/la-esponjosidad-del-pan-linaza-vs-goma-xantana/
Jordi: Wow! What a great experiment–thank you for the information and for the link!
I don’t necessarily want to substitute anything in your all-purpose flour, but I was interested in how I could utilize flax into your recipes without ruining the final product. I wasn’t sure if just adding a few table spoons or teaspoons of flax meal or whole flax seeds to the original recipe would work, or if I had to reduce the amount of something else. The reason I ask is because I am on a very high-fiber diet and I want to be able to make all my own GF foods without losing the fiber intake.
Tiffany: I think the best way to add flax as a fiber increaser is to add it in the final mix of something as the last ingredient (as you would nuts or a chocolate chips). That way it is an add-in versus an ingredient that affects the chemistry of the thing.
Thanks for the useful list, and for sharing your experiences with the various gluten replacers. We’ve had some good results with GFG (Gluten Free Gluten) from Orgran, which has methylcellulose with guar gum & small amounts of other flours. Have you tried these with your methods?
Eileen: I’m so glad it was helpful! And I haven’t used the GFG–although I do know that it contains corn and pea starch, which I’m trying to avoid in my mix. But, I will do more research!
@fourchickens Thank you! Great article – really clearly written! http://t.co/JLAh4CO1 #glutenfree
Let’s Talk Gluten-Replacers in #GlutenFree Baking – http://t.co/lkOWRXZM via @fourchickens
http://t.co/fCUDgoeL
Well written and easy to understand:… http://t.co/Tzwyu5z5
If you are serious about GF baking, here is a great article on the difference between Xanthan gum, guar gum and… http://t.co/HAmRRzqr
Excellent and accurate post from @fourchickens today on the use of gums – http://t.co/d6t2NptW
With chia seed, they absorb huge amounts of water. I find that if I add chia to a bread mixture the mixture goes completely dry quickly, and I need to then add some liquid to soften the dough. Do you have any guidelines on this?
W: Unfortunately, I don’t. I don’t use chia seeds, so I don’t have experience with them.
{New Post} Let’s Talk Gluten-Replacers in Gluten-Free Baking http://t.co/dd5ehz78